Both the ferry and Eurotunnel have their own pros and cons, but if you have just got off the former, perhaps after a rough night crossing, and don’t fancy the five-hour slog to those Vendée beaches? Just stay where you are – one of France’s finest walled towns is right in front of you!
St Malo was severely damaged in August 1944 as the Allied forces tried to dislodge a German battalion that retreated to the city for a last stand, an event captured in Anthony Doerr’s Pulitzer Prize-winning novel All The Light We Cannot See (and more recently a Netflix film).
But after the war, a far-sighted mayor insisted on rebuilding the historic town centre (known as the Intra Muros) brick by brick. Work was completed by the 1970s. It’s now yours to enjoy – and if you do decide to head to France, be sure to take a look at our tips for touring Europe in a campervan.
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How to get to St Malo
I sailed to St Malo with Brittany Ferries, on the MV Bretagne. Launched in 1989 and extensively renovated to the tune of £5m in 2009, it carries 1940 passengers and 530 vehicles. On board you’ll find an à la carte and a self-service restaurant, a piano bar, a cinema, several boutiques selling clothes and books as well as duty-free, and even a nail bar.
You can also benefit from one of 376 cabins, or one of 319 reclining seats. And there’s masses of open deck to enjoy the views on a fine day. Dogs have their own kennel space on board.
Where to stay on a tour to St Malo
Aire Paul Féval is a large aire with no electric hook-up, but with water and chemical waste disposal right outside. It’s slightly out of town, by the racecourse, but the ticket you collect at the barrier gives five passengers a free ride on the Line 2, which takes you to town and back from just outside (and runs until the late evening).
Alternatively, you could opt for Camping de la Cité D’Aleth – it’s a large site with full facilities in Solidor, a short drive from the ferry port and next door to the war memorial. It also has fantastic views of the sea from all directions. A pretty little caravan next to reception can supply you with everything you need for a Continental breakfast.
What to do on Day 1 in St Malo
8am – Coffee and croissants
The night ferry usually casts you ashore around this time, so why not head straight through Porte St Vincent, the main gate in the city walls that dates from 1689, and grab a café au lait and a croissant? The tourist office is right outside this gate, to help you get your bearings.
9am – Take the train
If you don’t fancy a walk, the tourist train departs from here. Hear about the history of the town, its sieges and fires, particularly in 1693 and devastatingly in 1944.
10am – Explore the ramparts
Now it’s time to brace yourself for a walk on the windswept and wave-smashed ramparts. On the way, you’ll pass many towers and fortifications against les anglais (almost always the enemy here).
Don’t miss the monument to Jacques Cartier, a native of St Malo (a Malouine) who ‘discovered’ Canada for the French. And if you’re wondering why there’s a sign for the Falkland Islands, it’s because they were named Les Iles Malouines by explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville (hence the Malvinas).
1pm – Lunch with a view
Head for Le Corps de Garde, right on the ramparts by the Place du Québec. Enjoy galettes or crêpes, served by a waiter in corsair uniform, and the fine sea views.
3pm – Watch the tides
Stroll on the beach – but mind the tides. The first things you notice are the huge wooden stakes rammed into the sand to protect the ramparts. François-René de Chateaubriand, France’s answer to Lord Byron, wrote about playing on these as a boy. You’ll see quite a few references to Chateaubriand in this town. In case you were wondering, his cook invented the famous steak dish named after him.
4pm – Island life
Two islands – Grand Bé and Petit Bé – can be reached on foot at low tide from Sillon beach. Do not venture onto the causeway if the water is less than 10m away.
Grand Bé houses the Fort National, built in 1689, just in time to fend off an attack by William III. He sent in a fireboat packed with explosives to blow up the town.
It ran aground just off Grand Bé and exploded, killing everyone on board but nobody on land, except a cat. Hence the street named La Rue du Chat-qui-Danse.
The fort is where the Nazis imprisoned almost 500 Malouines during the 1944 attack to act as a human shield.
6pm – Dine out in style
There are plenty of great places for dinner in St Malo – including ice cream parlours, an Indian restaurant (something of a rarity in France), and even an Irish pub.
What to do on Day 2
9am – Elegant resort
A good time to head to nearby Dinard, a popular resort retaining many of the Belle Epoque buildings that made it fashionable at the turn of the 20th century.
Since 1989, it has hosted the Festival of British Film, where ‘Hitchcocks’ are handed out as prizes. There’s a statue of the man himself on L’Ecluse beach, and a row of beach huts named after stars who have been on the judging panel – including Charlotte Rampling and Jane Birkin.
11am – Good walk, great views
Take a bracing walk around the headland east of L’Ecluse. Hard surface all the way, but not recommended in bad weather.
You’ll come across gorgeous views and secret bays, and marvel at how those Victorians ever got down here in their flimsy shoes. Dogs are not allowed on many of these beaches.
1pm – Beware seagulls
Stop for a bite to eat at one of the many cafés that line L’Ecluse. But watch out for the seagulls – there is a very good reason why the Hitchcock statue makes reference to his famous film, The Birds!
3pm – Wartime memorial
Head back to St Malo and the suburb of Solidor, where you’ll find more secret bays, a Rapunzel-style castle dating from the early 14th century, and a very moving memorial to the events of 1944, in the fort used by the German forces.
Guided tours run every afternoon except Monday in the summer, with an English-language tour on Thursdays.
5pm – Meet the locals
Stop for a drink or a bite to eat at one of the bars or tabacs around Solidor. They’re less touristy than those in St Malo proper, and you can enjoy watching the landlord greeting local customers with a handshake and a welcoming “Ça va?”
For those of you who would like a coastal getaway, but in the UK, take a look at our guides to a weekend in Worthing or a weekend in Tenby – two charming destinations which both offer stunning views.
After some more ideas for a weekend getaway? Then head to our Go Campervanning: Weekend Getaways section for more great ideas!
Lead image: Getty Images/iStockphoto
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